Korea between two fires

If you decide to go to South Korea just to see ancient monuments, you may be disappointed.
The Korean Peninsula is hardly a place where people have rarely fought. Consequently, the fruits of labor and creativity, no matter how brilliant, were not safe here. For several centuries, Korea was a bone of contention between China and Japan. The Mongols also had their share. Add to this the fact that traditionally, old buildings were mostly made of wood. Wood, as we know, is not the most durable material and, most worryingly, it burns readily. As a result, even those wooden palaces that have survived are usually reconstructions: they have been rebuilt repeatedly, often after complete destruction. It's rare to see anything truly ancient here.

Namdaemun Great South Gate

Until recently, the famous Great South Gate (Namdaemun) remained in Seoul. It is said that it has never burned completely. The gate was built in the late 14th century, when the city's fortifications were being constructed. It was the oldest wooden structure in Seoul and was considered a key national symbol. But, alas, on the night of February 10-11, 2008, it, too, was burned to the ground by a 70-year-old Korean man who wanted to use this barbaric method to protest the government's actions (the authorities had taken his land but failed to pay him what he considered adequate compensation). Only the lower stone section remains. There is no doubt that the gate will be restored soon, especially since numerous drawings were made after its last restoration in 2005. However, it will no longer be the original...

Annexation of Korea by Japan

The annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910 also did not help preserve ancient monuments. Korean culture was "in disgrace" until liberation in 1945, and even the language was forcibly supplanted by Japanese. And the devastating Korean War of 1950-1953 left no stone unturned in the cities. First, the North captured almost the entire peninsula (the South retained a tiny sliver in the southeast, with the city of Busan ), then UN troops drove the communists far north, to the Chinese border, and then the intervening Chinese restored everything "as it was." All this was accompanied by intense air strikes on both sides. Needless to say, these events did not benefit the architectural monuments of the Korean peninsula. It's no wonder that a city street with old buildings from the turn of the century can now be found only in Busan.

Regarding postwar history, Koreans did not particularly preserve the buildings built by Japanese architects during the "colonial" period of the first half of the 20th century, as they were reminiscent of that tragic time for the country. For example, the former residence of the Japanese Governor-General was demolished. This gloomy building in the very center of Seoul , in front of Gyeongbokgung Palace, housed the National Museum. It was very similar to the Japanese government building in Tokyo and echoed the outline of the Japanese character for "sun." Despite the fact that many events in the country's history were associated with it, including the proclamation of the independence of the Republic of Korea in 1948, the building was demolished in 1998 as a symbol of the colonial era.

There is a lot to see in Korea

None of the above should be taken to mean that there's nothing worth seeing in Korea. Firstly, there are indeed many ancient palaces (though partially rebuilt and restored, they're well restored). These include several palaces in Seoul, as well as in the ancient Korean capital of Gyeongju . It's worth mentioning such UNESCO World Heritage sites as Jongmyo Shrine, the tombs of the Joseon rulers, and the Changdeokgung Palace complex in Seoul, the Seokguram Grotto, Bulguksa Temple , and the historic areas in Gyeongju, the Haeinsa Buddhist Temple in Gyeongsangnam-do, Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, and the dolmens in Gochang, Hwasun, and Ganghwa-do. And secondly, exploring natural attractions can be no less interesting. The undisputed leader here is Jeju Island , with its volcanoes, caves, and waterfalls.