Olga Min
In the Dongdaemun district, in the very center of Seoul , lies Russian Street—a small island of Russia in a distant eastern country. A unique business hub for entrepreneurs from the former Soviet Union, Dongdaemun is a vast shopping district, with numerous large department stores and shopping malls where you'll hear a wide variety of languages: English, Chinese, Japanese, and now even Russian.
Dongdaemun is a unique, multicultural world. The market is open 24 hours a day, and at night it becomes a rich, bustling, and colorful bazaar. As you pass by, you'll hear a variety of languages spoken. "Even Korean has its own dialect here," says Jang Chul Park, a local vendor. This unusual location, opposite the giant shopping centers Migliore, Doota, and Hello, is where Russian Street is located. You can easily find it thanks to the numerous billboards in Russian. Even the smell of this street is different. The spicy aroma of Korean red pepper is mixed with the scent of Russian perfume, soap, food, fresh vegetables, and pies. "Every time I smell the sweet dough, I stop and can't resist trying it!" says Nargiza Izmailova, a housewife and mother of four.
"I always have a large selection of baked goods in my store: rolls, pastries, cakes, cookies, bread," says Raisa Pak, owner of a restaurant and bakery. "When I arrived in Korea, within a week I was already missing Russian food. So were other people from the CIS. This gave me the idea to open a Russian restaurant." In 2001, Raisa and her sister, Louise, opened the cafe "My Friend" and the bakery "Ugolok." Everything about this cafe is reminiscent of Russia: small tables covered with colorful tablecloths, comfortable chairs, silk curtains, wildflowers on the windowsills, and plates and cups just like those found in any Russian home. "The cozy and warm atmosphere at "My Friend" reminds me of my homeland. Even the music in the cafe is Russian," says Irina Bukatova, a medical professional from Vladivostok.
A small shop, simply called "Russia," offers original Russian goods rare in Korea. The shelves are stocked with Russian magazines and newspapers, the most popular being "Arguments and Facts." CDs and DVDs featuring music and films from the CIS countries are also on sale, along with cheese, chewing gum, and even the famous Russian delicacy "sausage." ( Remember, this article was originally intended for English-speaking readers. Note: kima. )
"Our customers are mainly entrepreneurs and students from the CIS countries. Koreans also often come to the store to buy Russian products and chat about the latest news," say Nelya and Vasily Tyan, the store's owners. "Our next goal is to open a chain of stores in Itaewon and Daehakro. We really want as many Koreans as possible to become acquainted with Russian culture and customs. We invite them not only to our store but also to simply visit Russian Street."
Most of the people living on Russkaya Street are entrepreneurs engaged in trade. Some live in Korea permanently, others come here occasionally. Permanent residents typically open their own businesses, like the Tyan family or Kamol Saidaliyev. Kamol Saidaliyev opened a company exporting traditional Korean fabrics, renowned abroad for their high quality, rich colors, and unusual patterns. "I invested my capital in accordance with the Korean Investment Act and started my own business," Kamol shares with me. "It's very difficult to start and manage a business, but I believe in success. As William Shakespeare said, 'Life is a stage. And I will play my part as best I can.'"
Direction: Dongdaemun Stadium (Lines 2,4,5) Exit 12. Left of COOP Residence Hotel.